PWI Editor’s Note: This writing originally appeared in the liner notes for the ¡TCHKUNG! release "Post World Handbook"

TREE SPIKING

HOW
1. Locate a good area to spike. Any old growth is good, since no more of it should be cut. Also, any area destined to be clearcut, especially any area on a steep slope that will erode after clearcutting. The Forest Service will provide you with copies of their forest management plans for free. It is a matter of public record what is to be clearcut, where and when. These plans are often filed several years in advance. It is best to spike years in advance of a proposed clearcut so that the tree bark will conceal the location of your spikes.

2. Equipment- A one-handed 3pound sledge hammer, 60 penny nails (for most trees), bridge timber spikes (for really big trees), bolt cutters, blue paint (if spray paint use trigger handle to avoid getting paint on fingers), work gloves & sturdy clothes, scarf for face concealment.

3. Place spikes 6 ft. or higher so that a logger wonít hit one with his chainsaw. Place spikes at varying heights so that there is not a pattern (bring a small stool or ladder). They will look for spikes with a metal detector and attempt to pull them out. To defeat this drive very small decoy nails around. With big spikes, drive them most of the way in, cut the heads off with bolt cutters, then drive them in deep with a punch.

4. Clearly mark the area you have spiked. Leave a couple of spikes part way out so that they will know that youíre not kidding. Label the entire perimeter of the area spikes with painted blue Sís. They know what the blue S means. Also mark out the spiked areas on maps and mail them to the forest service and logging companies involved, maybe even to the newspapers. If the cutting is a ways off, wait to do this so that the bark can grow over the spikes. Once theyíve been notified, if they decide to cut they are taking their own chances.

5. Security- Tree spiking is dangerous, and is in many places a felony. Remove all fingerprints from everything, only do it in very small groups of people you absolutely trust, and be prepared with basic disguises, code words for warnings, and getaway plans. Never brag about it

WHY
Why oppose clearcutting? Everything said about clearcutting by the timber industry and their paid scientist stoolies is the tissue of lies. The only reason that timber corporations oppose sustainable, ecologically sound SELECTIVE cutting is that it is too labor intensive. Good forestry provides too many jobs for loggers and timber workers! Further, there is NO need to destroy the worlds forests for paper products. Higher quality paper can be had in vast quantities with paper fiber alternatives such as hemp. Elimination of disposable products (paper bags, fast food wrappers, etc.) and a serious recycling effort nationally would have amazing results as well. Reusing wooden packing crates and recycling used wood (old furniture, scrap form old buildings, etc.) into wood chips would further cut demands on the forest. Clearcutting kills entire species of life. Forests NEVER really grow back, even if corn rows of trees do. Why put a wrench in the works, why spike the timber industries final solution? Why does the grass grow through the sidewalk.